Our son and his family live in Pennsylvania, and in 2021, we started looking for a place to do a multi-day bike tour in that area. A friend recommended the Great Allegheny Passage, which begins (or ends) in Pittsburgh, about 200 miles from our son’s home.
After doing some quick research, the GAP looked perfect — and it was! It is a 149 mile trail between Pittsburgh and Cumberland, MD that passes through spectacular scenery, interesting towns, and many historical features. Much of it is a rail trail with gentle grades and a smooth crushed gravel surface.
We’ve completed the tour twice so far: August 24-27, 2021 and July 30-August 2, 2022.
Below are our comments, observations, and recommendations regarding various aspects of our two trips. (Please note that we’re not being compensated in any way for our positive comments or recommendations of various businesses.)
Planning
Our planning for both tours began with a visit to the Great Allegheny Passage website, which has LOTS of good information. Two books are also must-reads in preparing for a GAP tour: the TrailGuide and The Great Allegheny Passage Companion.
There are also a couple of Facebook pages which can be helpful: Great Allegheny Passage and Great Allegheny Passage / C&O Canal Enthusiasts.
After looking at the options, we decided (for both tours) to do the ride in four days:
- Day 1 – Pittsburgh to West Newton – 35 miles
- Day 2 – West Newton to Ohiopyle – 42 miles
- Day 3 – Ohiopyle to Meyersdale – 40 miles
- Day 4 – Meyersdale to Cumberland – 32 miles
The tours were pretty much identical. The only difference was that in 2021, we used Noble Invention Bike Touring to arrange lodging, luggage transfer, and a shuttle back to Pittsburgh. They also provided maps and, if needed, real time trip support. Their service was excellent, and we recommend them, especially for first time GAP riders.
In 2022, we made all of our arrangements ourselves.
Lodging
Our overnight accommodations were the same for both tours, and we even stayed in exactly the same rooms.
In West Newton, we stayed at the Bright Morning Bed and Breakfast. It is located right on the trail. Our room was comfortable and well-appointed, the staff were friendly and helpful, and the breakfast was delicious. As an added bonus, there’s a Beer Wagon just a few steps away. We recommend this B&B, and we’ll definitely stay here again.
Our lodging in Ohiopyle was at the Ohiopyle Suites, located a couple of blocks from the trail. It’s a fairly basic motel, which was fine for our needs. Our room was on the first floor and was fairly small. There was “no contact” check-in so we didn’t meet any of the employees. The motel has a covered porch, perfect if you decide to leave your bikes outside of your room (which we did on our second trip). They also provide bike rags for cleaning wet and dirty bikes.
Our final night was in Meyersdale at the Levi Deal Mansion. It is beautiful, historic, and luxurious. The owner is a wonderful host, a gourmet chef, and is on the board of directors of the Great Allegheny Passage Conservancy. Needless to say, the breakfast was spectacular. We give Levi Deal our highest recommendation, and we’ll definitely stay here again.
Before and after the tour we stayed at the Pittsburgh Marriott Courtyard Downtown. It’s located on a bike route that leads directly to the start of the GAP. It’s very nice, albeit expensive. They have valet parking which we used for both tours.
Food
There are numerous excellent food options on the GAP.
In West Newton and Meyersdale, we had breakfast at our overnight accommodations, both of which were delicious. In Ohiopyle, we purchased breakfast items from the Falls Market in 2021, and in 2022 we had coffee and pastries from the Ohiopyle Candy Company.
On both trips we made a morning coffee stop at Tissue Farm Espresso in Confluence. Their lattes and pastries are great, and we highly recommend stopping there.
Our lunches were crackers, trail mix, and energy bars. We each carried two water bottles, and one was filled with Nuun electrolyte.
Our dinners, with one exception, were all very good. Our 2021 dinner in West Newton was at Fox’s Pizza, and we must have caught them on an off day. Their pizza was mediocre at best, and their service was almost non-existent. We’ve heard from others, however, who enjoyed eating there. In 2022, we had an excellent barbecue at the Outpost River’s Edge Eatery and tasty beverages from the Bloom Brew Draft Wagon, both just across the trail from Bright Morning.
In Ohiopyle we had good dinners both years. In 2021, we dined at Ohiopyle House Cafe and in 2022, we ate at the Falls City Restaurant and Pub.
Our best GAP dinners were in Meyersdale. We had a very nice meal at the White House Restaurant in 2021. A minor downside of dining there is that it’s about a 20 minute walk from the Levi Deal Mansion. In 2022, we had a delicious dinner at the recently opened Little Italy Trattoria. We recommend both places.
Bikes
For both trips, we rented bikes from Bike the Burgh. Their customer service was excellent. The bikes were Giant Roams equipped with panniers, handlebar bags, lights, bells, spare tube, patch kit, pump, multi-tool, and lock. Their tires were 700x42c, perfect for riding on gravel. In both years, we brought our own saddles. The bikes performed flawlessly. We will definitely rent from Bike the Burgh again.
Luggage Transfer and Shuttle Service
In 2021, Noble Invention arranged our luggage transfer between lodging and our shuttle back to Pittsburgh from Bill’s Car Service. This worked very well.
For 2022, we decided to carry our gear on our bikes and not use luggage transfer. This was a good decision. We used Bill’s Car Service for our shuttle, and again they were excellent to work with. We especially appreciated the good communication and the personable driver. We will certainly use them again.
Gear
We didn’t think too much about gear for 2021 since our luggage was being shuttled every day.
That was a different story for 2022 since we were carrying everything, and we wanted to keep the weight to a minimum. We didn’t weigh our gear, but the weight seemed reasonable, and it wasn’t too noticeable when we were riding.
Our gear selection involved a similar process to what we’ve done many times for backpacking and other bike tours: multi-purpose items, small quantities, lightweight, and take only what we absolutely need. (And besides, unlike backpacking, we’ll be in towns where we can always buy something if necessary.)
Everything easily fit in the Banjo Brothers panniers and handlebar bags provided with the rental bikes, plus one large dry bag for each of us.
Here’s our packing list for 2022:
Clothing (per person)
- Bike helmet
- Helmet rain cover
- Bike shorts with liners, 2 sets
- Biking shirts, 4
- Biking socks, 4
- Biking gloves
- Rain jacket
- Rain pants with leg bands
- Shoe covers
- Biking shoes
- Crocs
- Evening shorts, 1
- Evening shirt, 1
- Undergarments, 4
- Sleep shorts and shirt, 1 set
Bike Gear
- Bike saddles
- Bike water bottles, 2 for each of us
- Large dry bags, 1 for each bike
- Extra dry bags, 1 medium, 1 small
- Straps for dry bags, 2 for each bike
Technology
- iPhones and Apple Watches
- Charging cables and charging station
- Small, lightweight battery powered phone charger
- Bike GPS with charging cable
- Heart rate monitor
Nutrition
- Trail food, enough for 4 lunches with a couple of extras
- Electrolyte tablets
Toiletries (travel sizes where possible)
- Toothbrushes
- Toothpaste
- Small hairbrush
- Deodorant
- Skin lotion
- Sunscreen
- Chapstick
- Hand sanitizer
- Chamois cream
- Since we were staying in B&Bs and a motel, we did not bring soap and shampoo
Miscellaneous
- Driver’s license, insurance cards, credit card, cash
- Sunglasses
- Glasses cleaning wipes
- First aid kit
- Repair kit – Gorilla tape, zip ties, safety pins, parachute cord, bike multi-tool, Leatherman, shop rag
- Headlamp
- Trash bags – to line panniers even though they’re waterproof
- Ziplock bags
- Small towel
- GAP books – the ones mentioned earlier, somewhat heavy but well-worth having along
- Printouts of reservation confirmations
Some of the items, like the first aid kit and repair kit, were not needed (fortunately). We used most everything else except our rain pants. We did have rain for about 12 miles during day 2, so we were glad to have rain jackets, shoe covers, and helmet covers. Fenders for the bikes would have been nice. All of our gear stayed perfectly dry.
Bike Shops
There are numerous bike shops on the GAP. We visited and were impressed with two of them: West Newton Bicycle Shop and Confluence Cyclery.
Trail Highlights
The Great Allegheny Passage is one long highlight – from Point State Park in Pittsburgh, where the Allegheny and Monongahela Rivers meet to form the Ohio River, all the way to Canal Place in Cumberland.
We’ll mention a few of the trail’s features that stand out for us.
Bridges
Bridges abound on the GAP. A few were built specifically for the trail, but most were originally railroad bridges. Many are historic, some are engineering marvels, and all are scenic, fun to ride across, and add a unique character to the trail. Here are photos of our favorites.
Tunnels
Like the bridges, tunnels are another distinctive feature of the GAP. They are former railroad tunnels. The longest and most impressive tunnel is the 3,300 foot long Big Savage Tunnel which was built in 1912.
Rivers
For much of its length, the Great Allegheny Passage follows three rivers: the Monongahela, the Youghiogheny, and the Casselman. All are important to the region and have supported transportation, commerce, and now recreation.
Railroads
Since the GAP is a rail trail, obviously, railroads are ingrained into its history. The Baltimore and Ohio Railroad (B&O), the Western Maryland Railway, and the Pittsburgh and Lake Erie Railroad (P&LE) operated in the area, carrying passengers, mail, produce, freight, coal, coke, and other goods. The Western Maryland and P&LE have ceased operation, while the B&O became the CSX Railroad. You’ll see and hear several daily CSX freight trains on your GAP journey. In addition, the same tracks carry one daily Amtrak train going in each direction.
The Great Allegheny Passage Companion has an excellent discussion of the history and importance of railroads.
History
Historically, the GAP is extraordinary, beginning with the indigenous people who first lived here. The Westward Expansion, George Washington, the Mason and Dixon Line, the Industrial Age, wars, railroads, coal mines, steel production, and politics all helped define the importance of this area, both regionally and nationally.
This remarkable history is nicely covered in the The Great Allegheny Passage Companion.
Coal and Steel
Coal mines and steel production were of major significance to the western section of the GAP. Signs along the trail explain their prominence and importance.
Trail Towns
The GAP features hospitable trail towns. They are biker-friendly and most have lodging, cafes, stores, and other amenities. Spending time in these towns was one of the highlights of our two trips.
Nature
Travelers on much of the GAP enjoy nature at its finest. Beautiful forests, the rivers, the mountains, abundant wildlife, and interesting geology enhance the GAP experience.
Trail Tidbits
Trail Art
Trail towns and businesses celebrate the GAP with bicycle-related decorations, sculptures, and paintings.
Eastern Continental Divide
Until our first GAP trip, we had no idea that there was an Eastern Continental Divide. At an elevation of 2,392 feet, it separates the Chesapeake Bay and Mississippi River watersheds.
Volunteers
The GAP has an active network of volunteers who do trail maintenance and staff trail visitor’s centers. The GAP would not be what it is today without these dedicated individuals.
Navigation/Trail Markers
Navigating the GAP is simple. The trail is easy to follow, and signs are abundant. Also, maps and GPS downloads are readily available. We used “Ride with GPS” on our Garmin device, not for navigation but to track our miles and elevation gain.
A nice feature on the GAP are mile markers that count up or down, depending on where you start. Mile 0 is in Cumberland.
Water
Except for a few areas along the trail, it is fairly easy to find a place to refill your water bottles. Our favorites are the water stations provided by individuals who live near the trail.
We each carried two water bottles on our bikes, and we had a third tucked into our panniers.
Restrooms
Restrooms are available in trail towns and parks. Some of them are the portable type, and they seem to be serviced regularly.
Cell Service
When we occasionally checked our cell phones (AT&T), we had service in most of the towns and on the trail. One exception was in Ohiopyle State Park where we wanted to check the weather radar but had no service.
Support the GAP
The Great Allegheny Passage relies on the support of donors. You can learn more and make a contribution to the GAP Conservancy here.
Want More Information?
Thanks for reading! We’re happy to help if you have questions or want more information about our GAP experiences. You can contact us here.
Bicycling with Don and Kay 